CAFE SOCIETY

Each visitor has a play

a mad stream, some

flowing like water, some

staccato like an impression

of conversation, though take good

advice and refrain from

joining in, because this

will feed the flow to a

flood and then you are lost,

flapping lips, expressing

sympathetic denial, negation,

refusal, lots of things you

do not like to do, always

in the wrong, always

unreasonable, always

uncaring.

 

2300: Clock back another hour. GMT -5, 6 hours behind home (I think).

0600: Out on deck to see Point-a-Pitre. It looked more modern and less shanty-town-ish than Port de France. We came alongside.

0900: The taxi finally arrived after we had walked to the dock gates. First impressions were borne out when we reached Centre Ville - it is a beautiful city, with ornate balconies and canopies like New Orleans , well-paved streets and a general air of purposefulness.

We went to a cafe bar and I did my usual film-making technique of people watching with a camera. There were some real doozies, especially one Frenchwoman with a split skirt who looked 22 or 23 from a distance, but from close to was obviously at least twice that. She did her own performance which I didn't attempt to understand (I just go blank when I'm filming, I'm not there) to Tom and Peter and a table full of elderly Germans from a cruise ship which had docked just after us. The first German couple to arrive were very kind and bought an entire meal piece by piece for a white bloke (again in a strange mental state) who was obviously hungry.

So I started on the beer at 0910, but it's all part of the thing. Peter and Tom soon went on the rum again - apparently prices are significantly higher in Guadeloupe than in Martinique , but it's worth it. Then it got to be an issue of how we were to get back to the ship. There was an immensely complicated dispute between taxi drivers about who should take us which ended up with me chasing the taxi Tom and Peter were being borne away in, with no idea of where they were going. Very funny. We got back to the ship about 1135, 35 minutes late, and I found I had a voicemail reminder from the Captain. I apologised to the First Officer for our lateness, but we didn't leave for some time afterwards.

A DREAM WORTH INVESTING OUR LIVES IN

When we had dreams

that began in grey northern ordinary

and seized a known path

to more and new colours

that was the road we've taken

free rolling down the north-east trades

and this is where the dream went

and there it ended

unspecific

no timetables in paradise

perhaps it was to roam

but we would have said it was to be

a dream worthwhile enough to invest our lives in

trying to wring seaworthiness

from ancient frames

the workaday tools of someone else's yesterday

to be the new dream machines

for the young prepared to spend their youths

on dream coin

investing unique time in the non-specific hopes

that we can be cleansed of the crap we have attached

and live lives better than we are

through the one exceptional possession

to take us where we need no more.

It was a kind of death, and this is it.

A QUEUE OF SEABIRDS

A queue of seabirds overtakes us

towards the sunset.

MIXED SIGNALS

Due west, sunset fine on the starboard bow

disappearing fast.

Suddenly gloaming though the sun is fully visible.

Listening to Jimi Hendrix's 'Machine Gun'.

Mixed signals.

tH

GUADELOUPE

Launching out of the bay of islands

Seizing the opportunity for more south miles

Nearer and nearer the hot heart

following the sun on silver string

Too bright to see

A sun route

into the hot corner of the Caribbean

Crash and clash

Kalashnikovs of culture

all words in contention

let us dare to throw everything into the ring

and pick away, steal away by secret sightless night

having touched it, burned

but proud to show our marks

this is what we carry home

the searing knowledge of the routes of any search

but this time

we have not brought a serious enquiry

we are only visiting

we will come away,

our burns will heal

forgive us, at least we know

what we are lacking

we know there are big stakes

and games, though we do not know what they are this time

we will go home

and one day some of us will return

with terrible wounds to cauterize.

(FOR PAT)

THE LOOK AT ME MOMENT

Then sometimes it hits you -

the 'look at me, here!' moment

How did I cheat the fates

that would have me working in a Tyre Centre

On some go-nowhere circular road

to be here beneath someone else's sun

fueled by nothing more than a pen, a notebook and

four thousand pounds worth of video equipment?

 

the cheeky chappy

had the nerve to call himself an artist

then watched where the wheels might whistle

this world is too hot for this pale skin

but I bounce it off with mirrors

to confuse with shining faces

reflecting views of the world

in which I am not

and that is why

although I am tall

you think I am small

small Paul

sometimes I get these 'hah!' moments

so excuse me

I'm off for an unearned cup of tea

with teabags I have carried

Three thousand miles

And they are happy to be here too.

1330: We left Guadeloupe and pointed due west. Whew. Further and further from home. We have taken on the Caribbean now. It is stunning. And tonight - a barbecue.

0730: Ivan told us at breakfast that he had booked us a taxi for 0800, so things were a bit of a rush. I suspected after yesterday that, today being Sunday, most things would be closed anyway, and apparently there is nothing like a Sunday market.

0520: I went to bed early last night and woke early. We were approaching Guadeloupe along the coast of Grand Terre , so it was flat. More rainstorms in the night, and the decks were awash and slippery.

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SUNDAY 17th OCTOBER:

GUADELOUPE

 

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